Monkey Mia - the Penguin Parade of WA?

Hi All,

We are both well and hope that this email find you all well too and that you have not frozen or washed away in the cold and wet winter you’ve had. We did pick the right winter to go on our extended trip. Although Owen and I have both put on long pants and windcheaters today (I can hear you all saying how sad - too bad) for the first time since leaving South Australia.

We are now at Denham - the westernmost town in Australia. A small town with the beach stretching the length of the main street. On a clear day the water is crystal clear. We arrived here yesterday from Carnarvon 350 kms away. There is not much to say about Carnarvon (everyone thought we were nuts staying 5 nights there). It had a couple of good things going for it. Fresh fruit and vegetables as it is the area that supplies most of Western Australia. And Quobba. At Quobba there is a huge blow hole. Standing on the cliff edge watching the waves crash into the rocks and a huge spurt of water making its way through the rocks that forms the blow hole. The day we were there the water rushed many metres upward.

Lunch on an almost deserted beach was remarkable. The beach was covered with beautiful little shells and big clam shells. Leaving the beach once again with pockets filled with shells. So many unusual shells that will remind me of our travels when we get back home.

Exmouth and Coral bay were a real highlight. Swimming and snorkelling in amongst the coral and tropical fish of the Ningaloo reef. It’s no wonder that it is a world renowned place to visit. Again crystal clear waters and white sands.

Along the way we have met some very interesting people. None more so than a French couple and their teenage children who have been travelling for 2 and a half years in their motorhome that they have brought over with them from France. Fascinated with this after seeing the motorhome in the carpark I had to ask. They have been able to transport their home on barges and boats from France

to Australia. They have spent 6 months touring part of the east coast and now the west making their way back down to Perth to put their motorhome on the ship as they continue their travels in Asia. And I thought travelling from PI over to the west was a long way.

To begin with the days in Denham were wet but improved greatly as the week went on. This was the first day here that we were able to go for a ride so we headed off along the world heritage drive. A road following the coast line for kilometres. Returning back to town for coffee and cake at the local bakery. I knew I took up cycling for a reason. (Unfortunately have not found anywhere in the west that can make a decent coffee). We spent the rest of our anniversary visiting Eagle Bluff and a picnic lunch on a secluded beach covered with thousands of pipi shells. Passing the rest of the afternoon lying in the sun as we watched a school of fish about 2 feet long (which Owen and I believed to be gummy sharks) happily swimming around. It was so peaceful. And to end our anniversary celebrations we had a beautiful dinner in a little restaurant in town. A little quaint place made from shell blocks. Millions of tiny white shells pressed together to form blocks like the cement blocks used in building. There are only two buildings of this kind in Denham. The restaurant and the church.

Monkey Mia was our early morning visit to see the dolphins being fed. Almost like the penguin parade. Everyone gathering on the beach to see a few dolphins been fed. A bit overrated.

After a couple more days here it’s off to Kalbarri for the national park and the wildflowers.

More photos will be on the blog and facebook for those who are interested. The url is http://caravantrip2010.blogspot.com/

Until next time stay safe and well.

Love, Elisa and Owen.

Some photos of the trip so far

Gorgeous Gorges

Hi again,

Our extended stay in Broome didn't disappoint. The sunset lugger sailing on the Indian ocean was fantastic. Turquoise blue water and sun shining all catered for by our crew. The afternoon sailing took in whale watching. Our skipper followed a mother and her calf where we watched them swim and frolic metres from our boat. We even saw a big turtle poke its head out of the water. Then as we sailed back into shore with the backdrop of the sunset the full moon made its appearance. The moonlight across the water gave us a preview of the staircase to the moon. What an amazing sight. Sunset and moon rising.

The following evening we headed to the Mangrove pub with Pip & Steve to see what all the locals said was a must do. To the resonant sound of the didgeridoo the moon started to make its way upwards. Last night we saw the staircase in monocolor tonight the beam of the moon shone in color. The reds and golds made its path over the mudflats towards the moon. Taking on the appearance of a staircase. So pleased we stayed the extra time. For our final evening at Broome we headed to Point Gantheaume. A last game of bocce in the sand with Pip and Steve as we waited for the sun to set. Once it had set our thoughts turned to dinner. Prawns wrapped in prosciutto cooked in garlic all cooked by Steve on the beach and washed down with a nice glass of red. Happy memories of Broome.

As we started to make our way down the coast southward bound accommodation started to pose a problem so some of our planned stops were abandoned. So many people travelling resulting in now having to book ahead. Something O & I have not done much of as we prefer to take pot luck. If we like the look of a place we then proceed to find somewhere to stay.

Plan B was to drive on to Tom Price. The mining town of Rio Tinto. Not for the mining but Karijini national park. Everyone had told us the gorges and national park were amazing. Hamersley gorge was our first stop. 76kms away 50 of it on a red dirt road but not to be missed. Amazing. Climbing down then up along the water's edge saw the demise of my camera. Slipping out of my pocket into a small pool of water below. Retrieving it again taking another 3 photos before it died completely. It's true what they say - water and cameras don't mix. Never mind could have been worse.

These gorges are huge with massive drops to the water below. The red rocks with the sun shining on them and the crystal clear water below. Back to Tom Price to buy a new camera and wash away some of that red dust that we collected on our drive.

A full day trip to Dales gorge and the surrounding gorges the next day covered what we had come to see at Tom Price. They did not disappoint either. Huge gorges beautiful swimming pools and a class 5 climb and walk along rock faces and through crisp water was our afternoons excursion. Back into Tom Price at 6pm after a long and exhilarating day.

A visit to Rio Tinto's mine the following morning before a quiet afternion.

That is apart from a 30km ride. Fantastic riding outward bound taking in the sights of the ragged edges of mountain range. We could have ridden for miles only we had to ride back into a strong head wind. And was that hard going (and yes Malcolm the wind is your friend but by the end I was well and truly over it).

On the move again this time on to Exmouth and Coral Bay to take in some snorkelling and swimming at Ningaloo reef. A drive of 650 kms of grey bitumen surrounded by red rocky dirt covered with low growing scrubs and mountain ranges covered with spinifex. Nothing else but the odd car and caravan and a few roadhouses. We drove for hours with little change to the outlook. As I take the wheel to break the monotony I have to keep a sharp eye on the stray cattle, the odd emu and of course the crows and eagles which are dining out on road kill. The eagles are amazing creatures. Big and slow on takeoff. But once in full flight their wing span is impressive.

Hope this email finds you all well. Missing our kids and friends back home but this experience will be with us always. Lots of love to you all.

Elisa and Owen Bentley

10 Hotham Close

Cowes Vic 3922

T: 0359521256

M: 0418354197

F: 0359521256

e: benson@waterfront.net.au

Fortius Quo Fidelius

Beautiful Broome

Hi again,

Hope this email finds everyone fit and well.

Leaving Derby was a relief after 66mm of rain in less than 24 hours. Due to the unseasonal rain the Gibb river road was closed so our day trips to Windjana gorge and tunnel creek were cancelled. So the three days spent in derby were long and wet.

On our way again we finally headed to Broome. With much anticipation we arrived at our caravan park. Our first meal was at Zanders - a lovely restaurant overlooking cable beach. It was everything we had expected.

Before coming to Broome we were not sure whether we had heard so many good things about it that we might have been disappointed. Not the case. Sunset over cable beach was amazing. The expanse of beach and sky made for a wonderful sunset.

We spent the next couple of days swimming at cable beach before we headed out on a tour. 5.30am was our pick up time. A four wheel drive bus to beagle bay and then onto cape Leveque. The recent rains had made this trip very bumpy as the rains had washed some of the road away. Even as we jumped around Owen managed to get some more shut eye much to everyone’s amazement. Beagle bay is an aboriginal settlement and is a well kept area where the locals have made it alcohol free. Making such a difference to the area and people.

Back in the truck to cape Leveque. Beautiful coast line with some amazing rock formations. Then on to a seaplane where our pilot flew over the horizontal waterfalls and landed on the water near our lunch spot. A luxury cruiser. But first the speed boat ride through the falls. Exhilarating. Back onto the cruiser for our BBQ lunch of fresh fish. Another ride on the speed boat through the falls before our swim with the sharks. Don't worry we were in a cage so no danger of being bitten. An hour flight back to Broome via cable beach ended our perfect day.

Rick and Alison left us on Friday (wanting to escape from us!) making their trip back down the west coast. We both fell in love with Broome and wanted to stay on. Moving to another caravan park (where pip & steve heddles have been staying for the last 7 months). We will be here until the end of the month so that we can see the full moon reflecting over Roebuck Bay. It is known as the staircase to the moon. Something the locals say is a must see. So we are now settled into this relaxed way of life.

A ride along cable beach was an experience not to miss. Starting at Gantheaume point I rode the 5kms to Zanders. The sun in my face the gentle wind blowing and miles of beach ahead made for an unforgettable experience. I know sand and salt not good for the bike but Owen has plenty of time on his hands to wash and relube the bike when I got home.


We hope everyone is well back home and not freezing to death.

Sent from Elisa's iPhone

Dreary Derby

Hi all.


It has been a while since the last email and we have travelled many km north. Kilometres of nothing. As I knit while Owen drives the landscape changes very little. After visiting the ghost town of woomera. Owen and I can assure u all that our taxes have been very well spent in this town. No one to be seen as we walked along the beautiful paved footpaths. Kms of paving costing a pretty penny. Don't worry this was the last stop for good water so we made the most of our taxes and filled the water tank in the van.

Coober Pedy was our next stop. It was suggested that we stay 3 nights. If only o & I could catch up with those people again. We stayed at least 2 nights too long. Good to see but one day was more than enough in this dry and dusty town. Most of the houses are built into rock or underground. And wherever you look the landscape is strewn with mullock heaps where underground diggings have taken place. Once a mine is dug they can never be filled again. The streetscape is also littered with rusty disused cars and discarded old mining machinery. I did attend underground church service which was fascinating. Part of the church was built in a 22 metre mine shaft.

Alice springs was our next stop to replenish our supplies & catch up with phone calls & emails.

One night stop at Tennant Creek was an eye opener. Don’t stop there!

Daly waters our next stop. A caravan stop built around its famous pub. Dinner a few drinks and entertainment in the way of a bush poet and country & western music made this stay a real highlight. Best steak and barramundi we have eaten in a while.

Early start as there was nothing else to do took us to Mataranka homestead for three days of swimming in the warm natural springs. This is where Rick & Alison joined us followed by Rick's brother Chris & his wife Jenny.

Katherine a short drive away was our next stop. A trip down the river along Katherine gorge was very special. Finally we arrived at Kununurra. The two hour flight in a small plane was a real highlight. Friends of the FitzGeralds joined us & he is the owner of the plane. A flight over the argyle lake, the argyle diamond mine and the bungle bungles giving us an appreciation for the countryside. A vast land that is not easily accessible. Makes you understand how the drovers and early settlers struggled particularly in the wet. A day spent driving to remote stations and gorges made this another highlight of our trip.

After attending church underground in Coober Pedy. Church in Kununurra was under the stars on Sunday night. A very simple affair. 4 men playing guitars and an aboriginal preacher. Giving me some hope, as the majority of indigenous people we have seen on our travels have been sitting around town looking for their next drink fighting or shouting at one another.

Fitzroy crossing was our next destination. Rick wanted to get going early so he could get a powered site left at 5.45am followed a bit later on by us & his brother. It was a pretty long day 600ks of driving. Broome had had 6 days of heavy rain & it had moved onto Fitzroy crossing. Arriving at the park in torrential rain. Rick who wanted to be set up early ended up getting his 4 wheel drive & caravan bogged up to the axles in the paddock. Two hours later and with the help of a very skilled man who was staying in the park, winches chains and another 4 wheel drive, the car and van was finally pulled out. We all saw the funny side of things when we were finally set up.

Derby for three nights now and then onto Broome for a week.

Hope all is well at home.

Love to all,

Elisa and Owen.

A missile from Woomera

Hello everyone,

We have made it as far as Woomera and our next stop is Coober Pedy. After leaving home were headed towards Halls Gap. We had not been there for about 10 years and it has not changed one bit. Seems like it is stuck in a time warp. Our first morning started with a gentle ride (25kms) for me and 40 for Owen. Later that day we went for a hike to the Pinnacle. A walk that involved climbing over 1500 steps and hopping over rocks. As we started out it started to rain. We made it to the top but it was so cold and windy we headed back down again. On our way down we came across an American couple - the wife had fallen and dislocated her ankle and broken both her tibia and fibula (all of which we didn’t know until later). We tried our best to help carry her down. After about an hour of this we phoned for more help. It arrived an hour so later and Owen and I left them. Later we found out, some 8 hours later the couple and the rescue team finally made it down the mountain. She is having her op as I am writing this now. Nearly 2 weeks after her fall.

Our next stop was McLaren Vale to catch up with friends we had met on the Tour de France 2 years ago. Rolling hills covered with vines. Owen enjoyed a ride in the hills with Ray and I enjoyed a brisk morning walk. Our next stop was to be Port Augusta but our friends suggested that it was better going elsewhere. After a couple of days with them we headed to the Yorke Peninsula. Cold and very windy but Innes national park was beautiful. Walking the cliff edge and being blown away. And they say Phillip Island is windy. Very rugged coast line. Our next stop was Clare in the Clare Valley. A beautiful old town with old sandstone homesteads. The Riesling rail trail was a highlight as we rode between wineries along the track. We visited the nearby town of Burra (a copper mining town).

Still trying to avoid Port Augusta (or as the locals call it the gutter) we headed to the Flinders ranges. Rawnsley station. A 12,000 hectare sheep property at the foot of Wilpena pound. We spent a day driving through the gorges, not much water so we were able to drive thru without too much trouble. Lunch at a little pub in the middle of nowhere (Parachilna). The roo burger was very tasty and glad we made the stop.

A 5 hour hike was our next day’s plan. It was a 14km walk. 1km of which was climbing over rocks up a goat track. But the views from the top were amazing. Well worth the effort. One of the lookouts looked over Wilpena pound and the other lookout was towards Rawnsley station. What an amazing country. The range is about 400kms long. It is something one needs to see to believe.

We are now finally making our way up north. Woomera tonight and Coober Pedy for 3 nights after that. Driving here today we cannot believe the vast land that lies ahead covered with salt bush and not many tall trees.

We are having a wonderful time enjoying every minute of our travels.

Love, E & O.